7 things Hangzhou does better than Shanghai

The former capital of the Southern Song dynasty, Hangzhou is often referred to as Shanghai’s backyard thanks to its location less than 180 kilometers southwest of the country’s largest city. But don`t be fooled into thinking this is just another Chinese urban center.

Hangzhou, set to host the G20 summit, was once anointed the ‘finest and most splendid city in the world’ by Marco Polo.

And while that title is certainly up for debate these days, it’s currently one of the most dynamic cities in China.

Even the proudest Shanghaiists have to admit there are things that Hangzhou - a favorite weekend escape - does better than their city.
We explore a few in this mini guide to Hangzhou.

1. Lake living
As you gaze upon Hangzhou’s West Lake and its surrounding lush hillsides, you’ll understand immediately why it’s been a great source of inspiration for artists, poets and philosophers throughout Chinese history.

The mountain-fringed West Lake grounds are speckled with pagodas, pavilions, temples and gardens. The entire site covers more than 12,000 acres and there are numerous paths around the lake.

A favorite starting point is Beishan Road, off which you`ll see large patches of lotus blooms and leaves that seemingly stretch to the horizon. On the other side of the road are historic mansions and villas.

To best experience the lake`s charms, hike up to the hills in the early morning or at sunset.

2. Bike-sharing
While the rest of the country is moving from two wheels to four, cycling culture is thriving in Hangzhou.
The city developed China’s first bike-sharing system in 2008 in an effort to alleviate traffic congestion.

It’s since grown into the world’s biggest - and one of the world’s best - public bike systems. You can hardly go a kilometer without passing a bike-sharing station.

Hangzhou residents have access to over 84,000 bikes scattered across 3,300 service spots. The bikes have taken more than 600 million trips in the past seven years.

3. Longjing tea
Hangzhou grows some of China’s finest and most expensive green tea - Longjing. Every spring, before the traditional Qingming Festival, tea lovers from all over the country come to Longjing, a village just south of West Lake, for the first cut of top-quality tea.

During tea season - late March and April - you can smell the fresh aroma of the tea terraces, when leaves are picked and roasted in the village.

The village is open to the public and you can pick your own after getting permission from the local tea farmers.
As for how to brew it, Longjing leaves are delicate so the water can`t be too hot - around 90 C.

Freshly brewed Longjing tea has a yellow-greenish color and an aroma of chestnuts and cut grass.  Among the top places to experience the region`s tea culture is Longjing Imperial Garden at the rear of the village.
The compound houses a classic Hangzhou garden where you can sip tea and dine.

Meanwhile, the National Tea Museum offers displays highlighting the history and techniques of tea making, as well as tea ceremonies.

4. Hangbang cai cuisine
Unlike dishes from northern China, which are heavy in sauces and spices, Hangzhou cuisine is mild but flavorful with a focus on fresh ingredients.

You can’t leave Hangzhou without trying its signature dish, Longjing shrimp, which combines the city`s famous green tea with freshwater shrimp from local rivers.

The shrimps are peeled, seasoned, drained and marinated. Green tea leaves are quickly blanched in oil to bring out a hint of flavor, then the shrimps are fried in a wok.

When the shrimps are nearly done, a spoonful of boiled green tea is ladled into the wok to enhance the aroma.
Among the best places to try this dish is restaurant 28 Hubin Road.  Another celebrated restaurant serving local Hangbang cai dishes is Longjing Manor. Surrounded by tea plantations, it gained fame internationally when profiled by the New Yorker in 2008.

5. Mountain getaways
Looking for a quick city escape?
About 40 kilometers away from Hangzhou’s city center, Qiandai Resort sits on Jing Mountain - another tea-growing center.

With only 10 rooms, the resort isn’t grand or luxurious but every detail has been thoughtfully designed. Built by local architecture firms, the sustainable resort harmoniously merges into the surrounding environment.

Rustic yet delicate, original but imaginative, the minimalist architecture is tasteful.  All the wooden furniture, frames and ornaments were made from locally sourced timber or abandoned furniture. Rocks and stones used in the walls and paths came from the building’s original foundation and local stony country roads.

The hotel can arrange pick-ups and drop-offs to and from Hangzhou’s airport and railway station. There’s no website yet but staff speak English so foreign guests can call for reservations.

6. Silk
Hangzhou is the city of silk.
Its exquisite silk products have been sold domestically and internationally throughout its long history and have even been recognized by UNESCO.

Scarves are the city’s most popular silk souvenir, highlighting its cutting-edge dyeing techniques. The industry leader is Wensli, a homegrown silk brand that’s determined to become China’s Hermes.

The company has already purchased renowned French silk company Marc Rozier and hired a former Hermes executive as its CEO.

In 1975, Wensli was established by Shen Aiqin, whose family has been producing silk in Hangzhou since the Southern Song dynasty.

National and international leaders and dignities have worn the company’s products on various occasions. You can also get a tailored dress or suit from Wansli’s flagship store in Hangzhou Tower, a shopping center dominated by Western luxury brands.

7. E-commerce
Alibaba, the world’s leading e-commerce group, is headquartered in founder Jack Ma’s hometown, Hangzhou.
It’s single-handedly reshaped the city, once known for little more than natural scenery and cultural heritage.

Following Alibaba’s lead, Hangzhou has morphed into a high-tech metropolis, leading some to call it China’s Silicon Valley.

Alipay – Alibaba’s mobile payment application - has changed the way Chinese people shop.  Hangzhou residents can easily get by without a wallet as the app allows them to pay bills with a simple swipe of their smart phones - even at the smallest street restaurants and vegetable vendors.