From trade to trend: Transformation of Bangkok's historic hub

The area along Song Wat Road in Bangkok was once a bustling commercial hub where some of Thailand's largest conglomerates began. Now, the area is rising once again as local entrepreneurs celebrate the historical district's rich cultural diversity while adding modern touches.

A 10-minute walk from Yaowarat's Chinatown, the area along Song Wat Road on the eastern side of the Chao Phraya River is often teeming with young locals and foreign tourists. The neighbourhood is home to modern cafes, restaurants, art galleries and sundry goods stores. One historic building showcases colourful stained glass framed by intricately carved wooden windows, while another displays a unique mural of Chinese steamed buns resting in teacups.

With a terrace overlooking the river, Hostel Urby is popular among young, budget-conscious visitors, both Thai and foreign. Converted from a warehouse, it preserves the original roof and exterior while offering modern amenities, including a bar. Guests can stay in shared rooms for around 1,000 baht ($30) per night.

The owner, Punpitcha Taychakhoonavudh, 34, is often credited with sparking Song Wat's revival. She studied urban planning at university and was drawn to the area's rich history.

"Heritage is the value," she said. "[But] it's very difficult to preserve heritage. It takes more time than making new buildings ... and also much more money."

Punpitcha opened the hostel in 2017, using money borrowed from her family as she was unable to secure a bank loan. She said the area had long struggled to attract newcomers and its decline seemed inevitable. She added that she wanted young people to recognize the area's special place in Bangkok's history.

Song Wat Road was built in the early 1900s and led to piers on the Chao Phraya River where large steamships could berth. At that time, Bangkok was thriving as a key trading hub for Southeast Asia as Thailand managed to avoid colonization while many of its neighbours fell under European control.

Merchants and immigrants from China, India and Western countries flocked to the district. Chinese merchants, who outnumbered those from other countries, began wholesaling food and sundry goods, with some eventually becoming leading conglomerates, such as Charoen Pokphand Group and Bangkok Bank. However, many of these companies began moving out of the district in the 1970s due to its narrow streets, which could not accommodate automobiles.

The area still boasts old stores that go back generations, including noodle restaurants and steamed bun shops. Numerous temples and mosques, along with old Western architecture, also serve as reminders of the area's vibrant past as a cultural crossroads.

With Thailand's economic growth, Bangkok has transformed into an urban centre filled with large commercial complexes and high-rise apartments, leaving many people nostalgic for its past. Song Wat, with its historical buildings, began to attract their attention.

One business owner who capitalized on this sentiment is Pichaya Soontornyanakij, 35, who transformed a 120-year-old building once used by her family as a home and herbal medicine store into a Michelin-starred restaurant in 2021. Potong is now considered one of the hardest-to-book restaurants in Bangkok. Pichaya, the owner and executive chef, is a fifth-generation member of the Chinese diaspora, with ancestors who began a wholesale business for traditional Chinese medicines in Song Wat in the 1880s.

Born and raised in Bangkok, Pichaya learned to cook in New York. Potong offers progressive Thai-Chinese cuisine, reflecting both of her cultural roots. "When I see the building that belongs to my family, I think it really creates a connection towards emotion, towards people who come here," she said.

A course at Potong costs more than 7,400 baht, but despite its high prices, the restaurant remains popular. Pichaya said she has been advised to open restaurants in other locations but has chosen not to, explaining that Potong could only exist in Song Wat.

"When [tourists] come to Thailand, they want to experience real Thai, and this area is where you experience real Thailand," said Tor Boonpiti, Pichaya's husband and business partner. "[Here] you see the original [Thai] building, how local businesses work ... to survive and to thrive."

In 2022, local entrepreneurs and traditional business owners formed a group called Made in Song Wat to promote the area under the slogan "Where heritage meets creativity." With over 60 companies participating, the group created a guidebook and organized events.

The group also helps people start new businesses by sharing expertise. It is led by Kiattiwat Srichanwanpen, 50, a member of a Chinese family that has been operating a shoe wholesaler for three generations in Song Wat. Kiattiwat, also the owner of the art gallery PLAY art house, said the group is working to revitalize the area through various social activities, including efforts to reduce "garbage."

"We also concentrate [on] sustainability. ... So we can continue [to] do it together," he said.

Explaining one reason why the area has transformed so quickly, a member of the group said that more Thais are traveling to Japan, Europe and the US, and return with a greater appreciation of the importance of design and heritage in shaping townscapes. "Our generation has more opportunities to explore foreign countries. We travel and study abroad. Yes, America, and Japan, Kyoto, Shibuya ... that's [how] we started to realize value."

Many in the group mentioned being impressed by Cat Street, a trendy hub of youth fashion and culture in Tokyo's Harajuku district, while others were inspired by the townscapes of Kyoto. Punpitcha shared that the idea for Hostel Urby came to her after staying at an affordable yet comfortable hostel in Japan, revealing the fascinating link between the alleys of Bangkok and Tokyo. 

Source: Nikkei Asia